In May a brand new luxury coach comfortably whisked us up the M1 to Temple Newsam near Leeds: an imposing great country house standing in a Capability Brown landscape, complete with a working, rare breeds farm.
The curious name originates from the early association of the site with the Knights Templar and Newsam meaning new house. It was originally constructed in 1520, but much of it was rebuilt a hundred years later so its architecture spans both the Tudor and Stuart dynasties. And like all long standing great houses it has an intriguing history of owners; a Lord Darcy who fell foul of Henry VIII and lost his head, a Lord Darnley who married Mary Queen of Scots and became the father of King James I, and Lord Halifax who sold the house to Leeds City Council in 1922, the present owners.
It’s a huge place. Inside, long corridors lead off to many somewhat gloomy rooms, shielded from light damage by heavy window blinds. And as you wonder round you’re conscious of lofty portraits of aristocratic ancestors peering down at you with their haughty expressions, as if to question your right of entry into such a privileged sanctuary. Indeed, notices on the furniture warned visitors to look but not touch, or they would be locked in the cellars.
But bright silverware sparkled here and there and an eclectic collection of fine furnishings adorned the rooms. (When Leeds CC purchased the property their budget didn’t extend to the furniture).
In the Great Hall, a much lighter and spacious oak panelled room, we met up to begin a fascinating guided tour of the cellars.
Our cheery, well informed guide, told us about servant life downstairs and we poked about by torchlight into the spooky, dungeon like underground nooks and crannies. So atmospheric, these hidden corners were apparently used in several TV drama productions.
Out again into the warm sunshine, there was more to explore. Beautiful gardens, with a lovely laburnum arch, and a charming (if a bit smelly) little farm. Spring had brought clusters of newborn babies. Those cute little piglets made you feel quite uneasy about facing a ham sandwich again.
This was a great day out. Temple Newsam has been described as the Hampton Court of the North. And it’s not just because Henry VIII seized the place and gave it to his niece.
Our thanks to Alison and Ian for organising the trip.
